A date with my wife.

     Sometimes your plans work out perfect. Today I took my wife on one of the best dates in our 40 years together. I know, I know, talks cheap but listen to this. We were like jet setters...trains, ferry’s and tours and then home the same way...It’s not like jumping on a jet and going to dinner but come on, I’m on vacation.

     We were up at the crack of dawn (1st time in a month) so we could get an early start. Without a hitch we are out the door by 9am, heading for our train. The morning was warm, low humidity and sunny with clear blue skies. Walking to the station is always invigorating and we were 20 minutes early. Today’s plans are to travel to Portovenere, take a tour of Palmaria Island, have lunch and then check out the sights. The train to Manarola...a short 5 minute ride through the mountains, is easy, not many people out this early, so we had good seats in the air conditioned coach.  

     Now to the Ferry, we are a little early which means less chaos, it’s an hour ferry ride south of the 5terre. We buy tickets that include a tour of the 3 islands...these are just across the channel from the port. Nancy and I both love being on the water and today’s outing will allow us about 3 hours of cruising. 

     The ferry to Portovenere was awesome, we met some nice people (1 guy from Boulder), had some good conversation and had a chance to see some beautiful scenery. The way the Italians have tiered off the mountains to plant grapes is genius, they have cut through sheer rock to allow for train services and if you could see some of the homes literally hanging off a cliff, you would marvel at their ingenuity. The beauty of the countryside leaves you speechless. And then, as you begin to enter Portovenere, perched above you protecting the harbor is a walled castle with all the fortifications, as well as a very old church (I know another church). It was a killer view from the sea! The town itself is very cool, lots of color and a beach walk that looked inviting. Unfortunately Portovenere would have to wait...we only had 15 minutes before the tour boat left.

     The Island we are touring are named Palmaria, l. Tino and l. Tinetto. They are laid out largest to smallest as we head south, the 1st island is pretty good sized. It has been designated a National Park and we’ve heard there are great hiking trails available. On the west side of the island is the Grotta Azzurra, which is one of the big attractions, and did not disappoint. I’ve seen tons of new things on this holiday and one thing I’ve learned is to keep my eyes open, beauty is just out there waiting to be enjoyed. The 2nd island is likewise pictureques, but its controlled by the military and tourist are not allowed to roam around...its not very big, but it looked like there were some neat old buildings I’d like to see...The 3rd island is tiny but with a couple unusual things...there is a small statue that is in the water, its a long way from the shore and must be anchored underwater, not sure why or what it represents? There is also an old building that sits on the edge of the island overseeing anything coming north. 

     The tour ended too quickly it was only about an hour...this is something I would definitely recommend to anybody heading this way. We turned north and headed back to Portovenere and some lunch.

     As we enter the dock there are, at 1st glance, about 12 restaurants in view. They are all on the ocean and have outside seating, each one looks more inviting than the next. It’s great to have this kind of choice. We decide on a little restauranti about 1/2 way down the beach walk. A cool little place called “IL Pesto Della Lola”. A nice glass of house red and some spaghetti muscoli and we are full and happy. A wandering clarinet player stops and serenades the restaurant for about 20 minutes adding another memory to our day.

      

Great lunch...love the mussels.

     After lunch we aim to see both Churches (San Pietro and San Lorenzo), the Castle Fortress, and the Cemetery. San Pietro is the church inside the fortress and has a pretty interesting history. On this spot in ancient times (date not available) stood a temple dedicated to the Goddess Venus Erycina, thus the name Portovenere. An early Christian Church was built on the site of the pagan temple in the 6th century...The current church (San Pietro) appears to have been completed in 1257.  It looks like there is a crypt in the floor that is covered by thick glass (maybe Pietro himself)...but again no info. The second church resembled all the ones we’ve seen built in the 13th or 14th centuries, gorgeous but not really distinctive. 

     Now, the Cemetery was really cool...very inviting in some odd way, one unusual custom, that really gets your attention, is that Italians include a picture of the deceased on the headstones...I found this very appealing, it was good to see what these people looked like during their time here. I told Nanc if she’d bury me like this I’d forgo being cremated...however, I do insist on a picture that keeps me looking young and handsome. 

This guy was great...he roamed up and down from Restaurant to Restaurant.

Walk to San Pietro.

Check out the crypt...glass is thick.

Me and mother nature...we need to talk.

See Jesus on the way to the Church.

This may be the best picture I will ever take.

Church and fortress from the sea.

Castle and Fortress from the sea.

The color of the water was awesome.

My date...she's not bored, just relaxed.

Always...PEACE.

l. Tinetto

Statue is cool...l. Tinetto

Cemetery was very awesome.

     The grounds of the castle were just as awesome as everything else. We were sorry to have our time in Portovenere come to an end, but we still needed to catch our ferry and then train back home...we always keep in mind at the end of every train ride is the 382 steps up to Corniglia. The ferry back was easy and we enjoyed the cool breeze, once again we got good seats in an air conditioned coach on the train (we must be living right). We conquered the steps and finished our day off with a well earned Gelato. This was a day to remember. Great date Nanc, I love you.