On the Move.

 As the sand filters thru the hourglass in Corniglia, we remember the great times and sights. From the rooster in the morning until the gorgeous sunsets, our days have been full. Some we’ve spent quietly while others have been filled with adventure and exploration. We won’t soon forget the people we have meant or the places we’ve seen. Portovenere and Portofino were magnificent and how will we ever forget our Rock Concert in Corniglia. We’ve climbed 1000s of steps and walked in places people have walked for over 1500 years. The sense of history is around every corner. We take with us a better understanding of the world and the people of Italy. Molte grazie to all the people who befriended us and helped us along the way. See you in Umbria! 

I hope this artist captures the soul of Corneglia.

  

A note from Alessio, owner of the flat in Umbria.

Alessio, the guy who owns the flat in Umbria,  sent me this description of Alviano.


 Alviano is in Umbria, on the Roma/Firenze regional train line: 1 hour to go to Rome e 3 (the train stops in every little village!) to go to Florence.  Alviano is in the heart of the Colli Americni, between Amelia and Orvieto.  Whoever is interested in such a village should have a car.  The place is made to ride.  If it were in the US... the Colli Amerini would be Harley-Davinson country!  Our wine is superb and so cheap it makes you smile!  At the restaurant you eat like a king for 20 euro.  And... there's a restaurant every 50 yards!!

All I can say is I'm ready to smile!

Loved being here and still love America.

     Last night we had a chance to talk with my daughter Jessica, nice to hear her voice. She asked us an interesting question...she wanted to know if we missed being in America...it's not like we haven’t been out of the country before, we've gone on the occasional vacation for a week or two. But this really is the 1st extended amount of time we’ve been gone (with lots more ahead of us). The politically correct answer would be we really miss the USA and can't wait to get home.  But honestly, even with all the funny inconveniences we’ve written about, we loved being here and would probably be happy living here. I think people who believe America is the only nice place to live haven’t really been anywhere else. There are great differences for sure. The general population have no where near the standard of living we do, but they also lack the stress of wanting everything. They live mostly in small apartments that are adequate, but not roomy, their personal possessions are minimized because of space, and they lack our modern conveniences. For instance everyone hangs their clothing out, I’m sure the dryer has been introduced here, but no one seems to own one, or maybe they simply don’t have the room for it or don’t want to pay for the power to run it. But even so, their clothes still get dry.

     Since we’ve been here we have fixed our meals maybe 65% of the time, and we have not purchased any canned or frozen food ...we’ve put a few pieces of meat in the freezer, but if meat were more readily available in the village we wouldn’t even do that. We usually just buy what we need for the day. Today the main ingredients to our diet were spinach and rice...toast for breakfast and then at lunch we had rice and spinach quiche (delicious) and for dinner, a breaded spinach patty with rice (again delicious) and a salad. Very tasty. At home its very likely we might’ve eaten something frozen, canned or fast food from a place that gives zero importance to our well being or nutrition...

     People might say, well your on vacation, you have all the time in the world, not true, we spend about 8 hours a day wandering around the country, so we have about the same time we had at home to take care of the necessities. The truth is, without the distraction of TV, there is plenty enough time for everything else...the boob tube sucks up your life if you allow it to and, by design, makes you want (or think you need) everything. It wants to define happiness, beauty and importance for you and makes you believe it is your best source of entertainment.  

     We love America and the life we’ve been allowed to have their, our country is beautiful and its people amazing. The freedoms we enjoy are precious and have served to make us a rich and prosperous nation. But we are not alone in beauty, riches and prosperity...it really only matters how you define those things!

Last Days in Cinque Terra

The Main Alleyway of Corniglia.

We will miss the mall.

and our, "Whole Foods".

     We are quickly running out of days in Cinque Terra, and we are getting a little melancholy about moving on. What a great place for us to start. Our days went from 100MPH in Orlando and DC to 4 MPH in Corniglia (the speed of walking). You can’t help but feel the stress melting away. I’ve changed so much that when my phone rings I never think its mine (so I miss lots of phone calls). Just 10 weeks ago I was jumping when the phone rang. Our lives here have taken on the simplicity we had as a young married couple, it feels like we have all the time in the world to accomplish whatever it is we need to do. It’s good for your health to get away from all the chaos and noise and just learn how to relax again. 

During our stay we have made friends with some of the locales and count lots of new acquaintances from all over the world. We found we can survive outside our regular world even without knowing the local language. Adapting to a new environment is the key, and we rated about a B+. The next stop should be interesting, we go to a town that is 5 times bigger (1500 approx) than Corniglia, but not a tourist mecca. This is a small Italian village populated by working people, it is in wine country and we hear its beautiful. The name of the town is Alviano, if you look on a map it is about 1/2 way between Rome and Florence, just south of Orvieto and very close to Amelia. We do have to get there first, which should be an adventure. On Saturday we take the train to La Spezia, a taxi to the car rental center and then drive to Alviano. Mapquest has promised me 3 1/2 hours but we are allowing 4 1/2 just in case. We meet the sister of the owner of the flat in Attigliano and she will guide us in and help us get settled. Just another adventure...we are ready! 

     

Love the Laughs.

You see funny things on the train on a regular basis. If you had the time to ride the trains for 1 solid month I believe you’d have enough material to write a award winning comedy. On Monday we witnessed one of these funny moments. Picture this, four Italians traveling together, all talking at the same time, no one listening, in fact, not only talking but complete Italian arm and hand waving to go with it. You would think the lack of space alone would make this impossible, but there you go. I saw it with my own eyes. Nothing they were saying to each other could have been the least important, because again, no one was paying attention. Funny, the only people who seem to be listening were me and Nanc...and we don’t speak or understand the language!

Laughing our way thru Italy

The beginning scene of the greatest comedy.

Portofino.

     Portofino is an ancient fishing village that has evolved into a stunning modern port, it is located on the western tip of the Golfo del Tigullio, and looks like the kind of place jet setters flock to. Nanc and I only looked a little out of place. 

     This is the furthest North we’ve ventured. It took us 2 trains and a bus to get here...our first thought getting off the bus was...WOW! This is beautiful, everything...the water, the sky, the village...oh look a Castle and all these wonderful boats, talk about post card perfect.

      A couple things on our agenda, the main attraction is Michelle Vitaloni’s, WILD, a presentation of his “Animal Sculptures”...the venue for this exhibit is even better, Castello Brown. OK, lets see??? Great Art in a Real Castle...are you kidding...Pick Me! But before that we want to stop and see Grimoldi’s Statue Garden. 

     The Garden is interesting, what passes for art sometimes has you shaking your head...but the very next exhibit is awesome...all in the eye of the beholder as they say. I think they advertise 174 different pieces, and what a place to display them, center of the semi circled harbor on the hillside just below the castle and church...spectacular. One piece was plastic water bottles melted together and painted blue (maybe a school project), on this one I kinda missed the point, but it did make me laugh. Overall we felt a very well spent 90 minutes, the pieces were well displayed, and again the location is beautiful. I will post some on facebook.

     Next! Vitaloni’s art work is simply magnificent, and getting to it is pretty cool also, starting at the docks, you wind your way around the mountain on footpaths that eventually lead you to the Castle. Awesome views and the Castle is unbelievable. The art work is amazing and the way its laid out in the Castle is genius. The artist captures the creatures he sculpts to perfection. His works are categorized as “Specie Sculptures” and the description used by critics is “Hyperrealistic’.  The castle dates to the 15th Century and has a long history. A wonderful and charming exhibit that will make you anxious to see more!

     The viewing of such wonderful art has made us hungry, we circle back down to the water, find a nice pizzeria with shade, order lunch and a little glass of vino. Just another day on the Italian coast!

     We spent about an hour checking out the town and some of the shops, I wanted to get a few more shots of boats (I love boats remember), and we wondered back down to the other side of the dock. We had the best luck and fell in with a foursome from Wales...these people were having way to much fun...we talked and laughed and then they insisted getting pictures with us...what a friendly and lovable group...two couple’s Alan and Elaine and Edward and Catherine. I think Edward had maybe had a little to much vino and fallen down (but was back up)...this was what had them all laughing and carrying on. This is another great moment on the road and the reason to travel...It is always great to meet new people and have a fun connection. As we made our way towards the bus we bade our new friends Arrivederchi and started the long trek home. We did the 382 steps with no stops, rests, or breaks...a first! We celebrated with chocolate ice cream on bars...perfect!    

On the Castle Terrace.

Beautiful Hotel.

The Castle overlooks the harbor below...no words to describe this!

This view from the trail to the Castle.

When I get rich and famous this is the boat I want.

Just perfect.

My favorite photo of the day...from the castle.

Pinch us...hard to believe we are here.

Our funny "new friends" from Wales.

Portifino...Perfecto!

Our vote for most beautiful church in this part of Italy

Awesome Church

We even found Eden!

Fuck the World seems a little inappropriate for hanging in public...in Catholic Italy especially.

Looks like Nancy's "man in the ceiling".

Evolution. Can you pick out the higher species?

This artist captures the soul of these creatures.

       

A Rock Concert? What?

Sound check. We had dinner under the blue umbrella.

By the end of the concert there were maybe 150 people...1/2 the village!

At the concert...feeling very hip.

     You will not believe where we've been tonight...OK, 1 guess...A ROCK AND ROLL CONCERT!!! Yes, a concert, right here in teeny tiny Corniglia, with a population of 300...it was surreal. We had decided to eat out tonight at one of the better restaurants and this place doesn't open until 8, we headed down to the piazza about 7:15 for a short "Veg Session" on one of the bench's...we couldn't believe it, there was a band doing sound test. Very strange! We asked around and found out this Rock Group would be playing for a couple hours starting at 9pm...we don't care why or how...we are going to a concert!  Wow, a concert. Right here on Largo Ataglia square...Cool!
     During our "Veg" we meant a guy and his daughter, and chit chatted a bit. When they started seating for dinner, in european style, they were sat besides us, nice people from Ontario, Canada, they were spending a month touring Italy, he was a retired cop and she's a college student on a 6 month leave from classes, they were fun dinner partners. Nanc and I both ordered Seafood Rissotto and a half liter of vino rossa...these cooks  know their fish the meal was fabulous.

     After dinner we found a wall to stand against and watched a 2 1/2 hour concert...the music was pretty good, but can you imagine...here we are on the cliffs of the Mediterranean, under the 5terre night sky, in a very small village, listening to a Rock Concert which is being performed in front of a 14th century church! Come on, you have to be here to believe this could happen. What an awesome night! They played a couple of encores and had the crowd rocking. This was beyond cool!

Odds and Ends.

Our new "Hippie Chic" Jeweler

   I see online that the cycle of television programs is about to start again. I told Nanc this year she could dance with me under the stars, together we’d survive strange foreign places, travel without being in any kind of amazing race and if our weight gain gets out of control we would be losers together...this is our reality...better than any show.

Our own reality show.

     

When you are successful you earn the corner office, when your not you find yourself in a cubicle and when your unemployed you get to pick your office location...so I pick my little Lanai in Corniglia, fresh air, sunshine and a killer view. Writing a blog isn’t easy you know.

My new office.

    

Awhile back we meant Tony, the “hippie jewelry guy”. Tony is this tall, lean Italian with dreadlocks down to his waist. Everything he sales is between 5 and 15 euros. He travels by train everyday from Sis Levante and sets up shop on the stairs coming up from the train. He brings his small battery operated stereo and plays his Reggae CD’s. Most days if he’s there we stop and say hello. This is one laid back Italian. We’ve bought a few things from him and will wear them and remember his great smile and nice manner. If you pass this way stop and spend $5 euros, even if you don’t like the jewelry, you’ll love the jeweler. 

A date with my wife.

     Sometimes your plans work out perfect. Today I took my wife on one of the best dates in our 40 years together. I know, I know, talks cheap but listen to this. We were like jet setters...trains, ferry’s and tours and then home the same way...It’s not like jumping on a jet and going to dinner but come on, I’m on vacation.

     We were up at the crack of dawn (1st time in a month) so we could get an early start. Without a hitch we are out the door by 9am, heading for our train. The morning was warm, low humidity and sunny with clear blue skies. Walking to the station is always invigorating and we were 20 minutes early. Today’s plans are to travel to Portovenere, take a tour of Palmaria Island, have lunch and then check out the sights. The train to Manarola...a short 5 minute ride through the mountains, is easy, not many people out this early, so we had good seats in the air conditioned coach.  

     Now to the Ferry, we are a little early which means less chaos, it’s an hour ferry ride south of the 5terre. We buy tickets that include a tour of the 3 islands...these are just across the channel from the port. Nancy and I both love being on the water and today’s outing will allow us about 3 hours of cruising. 

     The ferry to Portovenere was awesome, we met some nice people (1 guy from Boulder), had some good conversation and had a chance to see some beautiful scenery. The way the Italians have tiered off the mountains to plant grapes is genius, they have cut through sheer rock to allow for train services and if you could see some of the homes literally hanging off a cliff, you would marvel at their ingenuity. The beauty of the countryside leaves you speechless. And then, as you begin to enter Portovenere, perched above you protecting the harbor is a walled castle with all the fortifications, as well as a very old church (I know another church). It was a killer view from the sea! The town itself is very cool, lots of color and a beach walk that looked inviting. Unfortunately Portovenere would have to wait...we only had 15 minutes before the tour boat left.

     The Island we are touring are named Palmaria, l. Tino and l. Tinetto. They are laid out largest to smallest as we head south, the 1st island is pretty good sized. It has been designated a National Park and we’ve heard there are great hiking trails available. On the west side of the island is the Grotta Azzurra, which is one of the big attractions, and did not disappoint. I’ve seen tons of new things on this holiday and one thing I’ve learned is to keep my eyes open, beauty is just out there waiting to be enjoyed. The 2nd island is likewise pictureques, but its controlled by the military and tourist are not allowed to roam around...its not very big, but it looked like there were some neat old buildings I’d like to see...The 3rd island is tiny but with a couple unusual things...there is a small statue that is in the water, its a long way from the shore and must be anchored underwater, not sure why or what it represents? There is also an old building that sits on the edge of the island overseeing anything coming north. 

     The tour ended too quickly it was only about an hour...this is something I would definitely recommend to anybody heading this way. We turned north and headed back to Portovenere and some lunch.

     As we enter the dock there are, at 1st glance, about 12 restaurants in view. They are all on the ocean and have outside seating, each one looks more inviting than the next. It’s great to have this kind of choice. We decide on a little restauranti about 1/2 way down the beach walk. A cool little place called “IL Pesto Della Lola”. A nice glass of house red and some spaghetti muscoli and we are full and happy. A wandering clarinet player stops and serenades the restaurant for about 20 minutes adding another memory to our day.

      

Great lunch...love the mussels.

     After lunch we aim to see both Churches (San Pietro and San Lorenzo), the Castle Fortress, and the Cemetery. San Pietro is the church inside the fortress and has a pretty interesting history. On this spot in ancient times (date not available) stood a temple dedicated to the Goddess Venus Erycina, thus the name Portovenere. An early Christian Church was built on the site of the pagan temple in the 6th century...The current church (San Pietro) appears to have been completed in 1257.  It looks like there is a crypt in the floor that is covered by thick glass (maybe Pietro himself)...but again no info. The second church resembled all the ones we’ve seen built in the 13th or 14th centuries, gorgeous but not really distinctive. 

     Now, the Cemetery was really cool...very inviting in some odd way, one unusual custom, that really gets your attention, is that Italians include a picture of the deceased on the headstones...I found this very appealing, it was good to see what these people looked like during their time here. I told Nanc if she’d bury me like this I’d forgo being cremated...however, I do insist on a picture that keeps me looking young and handsome. 

This guy was great...he roamed up and down from Restaurant to Restaurant.

Walk to San Pietro.

Check out the crypt...glass is thick.

Me and mother nature...we need to talk.

See Jesus on the way to the Church.

This may be the best picture I will ever take.

Church and fortress from the sea.

Castle and Fortress from the sea.

The color of the water was awesome.

My date...she's not bored, just relaxed.

Always...PEACE.

l. Tinetto

Statue is cool...l. Tinetto

Cemetery was very awesome.

     The grounds of the castle were just as awesome as everything else. We were sorry to have our time in Portovenere come to an end, but we still needed to catch our ferry and then train back home...we always keep in mind at the end of every train ride is the 382 steps up to Corniglia. The ferry back was easy and we enjoyed the cool breeze, once again we got good seats in an air conditioned coach on the train (we must be living right). We conquered the steps and finished our day off with a well earned Gelato. This was a day to remember. Great date Nanc, I love you. 

Corniglia's Mall

Very charming little joints. Mostly local products.

What a display system!

No sale today, be back tomorrow.

   From what I can tell, all the businesses in Corniglia are owned by local yocals. The big Corporations may have products in these stores but ownership remains local. There are no McDonald's or Starbucks here. I firmly believe there is a place for the likes of Walmart and Home Depot, but it’s nice seeing a place that resemble’s my hometown when I was a kid, back then everything was owned by one of your friend's family and usually run by their dad or family. These little mom and pop joints are great, they really get out and charm you, they aren't real pushy, but offer all the service you require. A lot of the small businesses in Corniglia display their goods on the old block/stone walls, in the 6’ alleyways...very cool. There is a little something for everyone, but not over saturated. The restaurants are the same...each tries to get their niche, but none want to be everything for everyone. The owner is more than likely present most days and takes a keen interest in whats happening. These places provide needed employment to the area residents and it seems like everybody works doing something. I’ve spent about 1/2 of my working career with big corporations and I think name brands are wonderful, but this little throwback is nice to see. Oh yea, they don’t even ream you on price!

Going Postal in Italy.

About a week ago I had an opportunity to watch a tourist try to figure out where the Post Office was. No words, no music, a kind of   pantomime...this poor lady. Let me explain, from our Lanai we have an unobstructed view to the building that houses the post office. The first time I went to mail something I did exactly what this woman was about to do. There is a sign on the road that directs you up a short flight of stairs, when you get to the top there is an arrow telling you to go to the right, you walk around the right side of the building and there is nothing there? You go back and study the sign and think, maybe the arrow was wrong, so this time you go to the left instead, ahhh, this must be it, lots of doors which means possibilities, so she walks to each door, and since there are no signs, she tries each one...hmmmm all locked? She goes back and studies the sign again, and again walks over to the right side of the building, still nothing there??? Once more she comes back and studies the sign...after 5 minutes of starring at that sign, she turns around, goes down the stairs and looks at the original sign telling her where the Post office is suppose to be. Finally, shaking her head, she leaves, by now she is totally baffled. 

     The secret to the Post Office in Corniglia is, when you go to the right, even though it looks as if nothing is there, you must walk into the nothingness about 6 feet, and there, recessed into the wall, is the door to the Post Office...why would you need a sign?

Clearly the Post Office...

Good signage

Sign, Postal drop, and the little handwritten job tells you which way to go,
so they must know its a problem.

Perfectly clear...Right!

On the steps to our flat.

Contemplating postal problems...NOT!

     So today, I just finished mailing 2 letters at our Post Office. What an experience. When we entered, thru their hidden, vacuum sealed door, we were only 3rd in line. The first customer finished in about 1 minute so I figured we’d be in and out pretty quick. The second customer seemed to have questions regarding some complex postal issue, 5 minutes, 10 minutes...this is taking forever...I have no idea what the conversation was about but it did include 10,000 rapid fire Italian words and enough hand waving and finger pointing to wear out an average person. Finally the attendant got her book, made copies and came out into the waiting area to read them to the customer, this of course led to more hand-waiving, pointing and rapid fie speaking. This would never happen in the US for a couple reasons, 1) the postal worker would never be so interested in your problem they would go to all this trouble and 2) a normal postal worker would go postal on you and come out shooting. This was really a sight and possibly the very best customer service I’ve ever seen. The lady helping the customer was working alone, but acted as if she’d be happy to just help this one woman today and no one else...she didn’t look at us or even act like this was anything unusual. Finally all the talking an waving ended, the ladies said there goodbyes and it was our turn...we received the exact same treatment, the only real difference was we were done in 1 minute. Gotta love the PostaItaliano and these Italians. What a show.